Hi All
A quick look at Delta Yard yesterday afternoon, resulted in capturing BNSF Dash8-40CW #874
As you can see very shabby condition. May push the CP AC4400CW of the contender list.
I remember getting #812 crashing over the diamonds at Jolliet Ill, brand new running York Canyon coal trains, back in 1992. Just goes to show what 20 odd years of grime and punishment can do to a locomotive.
A site for my Model Railway Layouts: Barcoola. This is take on Tarcoola SA the junction between the Trans Australian Railway and the Central Australian Railway. A Town like Alice, my take on Alice Springs. Murray River Bridge, my model of the bridge over the Murray river.
Monday, August 25, 2014
Sunday, August 17, 2014
exhibit A the winner of the most shabby locomotive in Washington state Canadian Pacific AC4400CW 9509
Hi All
While checking out the south end of Delta Yard, I found Canadian Pacific AC4400CW number 9509 thus I reckon this exhibit A the winner of the most shabby locomotive in Washington state.
Looks like burn marks, a great weathering challenge
enjoy
Scott
While checking out the south end of Delta Yard, I found Canadian Pacific AC4400CW number 9509 thus I reckon this exhibit A the winner of the most shabby locomotive in Washington state.
Looks like burn marks, a great weathering challenge
Here is the other side of 9509 from RRpictures.
I have a KATO CP AC4400CW that will be sacrificed in the name of replicating this locomotive.enjoy
Scott
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Paine Field shunter, I finally gotya!
Hi All
Finally after 4 years of trying, just before lunch I managed to snaffle the Paine Field shunter working up to Paine Field from Mukilteo.
I went down there on spec and then, there she was.
Enjoy
Scott
Finally after 4 years of trying, just before lunch I managed to snaffle the Paine Field shunter working up to Paine Field from Mukilteo.
I went down there on spec and then, there she was.
Enjoy
Scott
Saturday, August 9, 2014
BNSF Everett WA area update.
Hi All
Just a quick update on the goings on around Paine Field, here is the Paine Field shunt locos shut down at Mukilteo, waiting for the crane to finish loading.
Just a quick update on the goings on around Paine Field, here is the Paine Field shunt locos shut down at Mukilteo, waiting for the crane to finish loading.
View looking south
One more box to go guys!
New mainline roads have been built around Delta yard, looks like its already chockablock block,
Just north of Everett station a ethanol train seems to have got stuck, looks like a head on but its not.
The casscade is inching up.
A GP30u and GP38 hold the loop, waiting for the ethanol train.
Thursday, August 7, 2014
Barcoola on facebook
The barcoola Facebook site is an adjunct to the barcoola blog site, it's a way for me to better interact with the followers of the blog and if possible give real time responses. This is not to suggest that there will be less on the blog but there will be additional material, there is the possibility of videos, etc.
The blog site is like a magazine and is fairly one way in communication, like media today it all about the interaction.
I would like the Facebook site to be a source of information and reference that will add to the blog, I am not sure about the indexing on Facebook, at the moment it just seems to be random with the most popular appearing first. However if there is a link on the blog it will ensure that you can click directly on to the link, without have to scroll endlessly through the Facebook group to get what you want.
Other advantages I see is that I can offer exclusive custom models especially for the group. The aim here is to grow a following, and share the passion of my prototype.
If I had to work out what time I spent on models vs return it going to be very low, so it's not a get rich quick scheme.
But if it means that little Barcoola style layout start springing up at exhibitions, or on blogs, yippy. It means I have inspired others and that can only be a good thing.
The hobby is changing, magazines like Model Railroad Hobbyist have come leaps and bounds with blogs attached. The problem is that to find tips and inspiration it's just a lot of time wasting searching.
There is still a big gap between what is available for North American and European modellers, I would like to close that gap.
The availability of detailed models from china have definitely changes the way we model. What this means is that say 15 to 20 years ago, modelling AN was all about scratch building, and a long term dedication to the cause. Now you can get a lot of rolling stock RTR. Thus that need to accomplish scratch building as dramatically reduced. That is not to say it is totally gone. It seems to me that traditional kit type manufacture have found a neish in what the big manufactures won't do. But this also is improving, casting are almost obtaining the quality of very early plastic castings.
The internet has enabled two more types of manufactures to exist.
One
The most obvious is passionate, creative types that have accomplished 3D printing masters that can be available to others simply by doing an order through the applicable website.
Two
The short quantity manufacture, these people do a couple of extras and will sell them on the web, usually you only pick these up by knowing someone who knows someone, these may be casting or even finished 3D printed models.
what this means is that if you are after a model that the big guys are not going to touch, you can finally see the time when you can have more than one of what you are after rather than toiling away on one model, great bang for your modelling time.
Anyway, next steps I have to create a data sources, links etc so that you can get all that you need to build a great Barcoola style model railway. So check out Barcoola Model Railway on facebook, it's just a shell but give me time.
The blog site is like a magazine and is fairly one way in communication, like media today it all about the interaction.
I would like the Facebook site to be a source of information and reference that will add to the blog, I am not sure about the indexing on Facebook, at the moment it just seems to be random with the most popular appearing first. However if there is a link on the blog it will ensure that you can click directly on to the link, without have to scroll endlessly through the Facebook group to get what you want.
Other advantages I see is that I can offer exclusive custom models especially for the group. The aim here is to grow a following, and share the passion of my prototype.
If I had to work out what time I spent on models vs return it going to be very low, so it's not a get rich quick scheme.
But if it means that little Barcoola style layout start springing up at exhibitions, or on blogs, yippy. It means I have inspired others and that can only be a good thing.
The hobby is changing, magazines like Model Railroad Hobbyist have come leaps and bounds with blogs attached. The problem is that to find tips and inspiration it's just a lot of time wasting searching.
There is still a big gap between what is available for North American and European modellers, I would like to close that gap.
The availability of detailed models from china have definitely changes the way we model. What this means is that say 15 to 20 years ago, modelling AN was all about scratch building, and a long term dedication to the cause. Now you can get a lot of rolling stock RTR. Thus that need to accomplish scratch building as dramatically reduced. That is not to say it is totally gone. It seems to me that traditional kit type manufacture have found a neish in what the big manufactures won't do. But this also is improving, casting are almost obtaining the quality of very early plastic castings.
The internet has enabled two more types of manufactures to exist.
One
The most obvious is passionate, creative types that have accomplished 3D printing masters that can be available to others simply by doing an order through the applicable website.
Two
The short quantity manufacture, these people do a couple of extras and will sell them on the web, usually you only pick these up by knowing someone who knows someone, these may be casting or even finished 3D printed models.
what this means is that if you are after a model that the big guys are not going to touch, you can finally see the time when you can have more than one of what you are after rather than toiling away on one model, great bang for your modelling time.
Anyway, next steps I have to create a data sources, links etc so that you can get all that you need to build a great Barcoola style model railway. So check out Barcoola Model Railway on facebook, it's just a shell but give me time.
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
Barcoola happenings
Hi All
Just a quick note to let you all know what's happening. We had another successful, and impromptu operating session on Saturday just gone. Jon managed to get a leave bypass from hospital, and ended up having a run. Was good to see considering his current condition, I made sure it was all EMDs for you mate!
Glen turned up and showed off his latest ultra modern pieces of rolling stock.
A couple of decisions have been in the back of my mind.
So I thought I would lay it out.
Given Glen's nod to an ultra modern layout, I am seriously considering selling Barcoola, so that I can build a standard fiddle - staging yard for the next couple of future layouts.
Any Pilbara layout at this time is probably going to be old school, early 1990's (it's a rooting era thing, I will explain later).
Any other joint project if it arises will be using the same fiddle staging yard.
Other things in the pipeline I will devolge later.
Just a quick note to let you all know what's happening. We had another successful, and impromptu operating session on Saturday just gone. Jon managed to get a leave bypass from hospital, and ended up having a run. Was good to see considering his current condition, I made sure it was all EMDs for you mate!
Glen turned up and showed off his latest ultra modern pieces of rolling stock.
A couple of decisions have been in the back of my mind.
So I thought I would lay it out.
Given Glen's nod to an ultra modern layout, I am seriously considering selling Barcoola, so that I can build a standard fiddle - staging yard for the next couple of future layouts.
Any Pilbara layout at this time is probably going to be old school, early 1990's (it's a rooting era thing, I will explain later).
Any other joint project if it arises will be using the same fiddle staging yard.
Other things in the pipeline I will devolge later.
Monday, July 28, 2014
Tru Color Paints a replacement for Acuflex modelflex paints?
Hi All
Like all things, if you have something that works for you, you need to have a reliable supply. Unfortunately Acuflex or modelflex paints are no longer available. I have been looking for a replacement, this means:
I had been experimenting with various paints, and for weathering I have been relatively successful using Vallejo acrylic paints.
However for straight painting, it got a little expensive, small containers of 17ml, which had to be transferred to a bottle, that could be fed into the gun.
These were meant to go straight into the gun, which is what I was after, no stuffing around.
But I found Vallejo needed to be cut.
While at the Ballarat exhibition I came across these, Tru Color Paints, the guy selling them, Toney, is the owner of Southern Cross Railway Hobbies (here is the link)
Apart from the base being Acetone, the paints fit the bill, they have all the railway colours.
In descent size bottles, and can be sprayed from the bottle directly from the gun.
After first giving it a go, I have learned that it does not hurt to cut the mix with some Acetone. There is some escaping of the acetone over time, so I just monitored my usage and adjusted accordingly.
Plenty of googling will show some tips, from on line forums, my tip is a lick of acetone to each bottle before application is just fine.
Here are some of the paint colours,
I must admit that I am impressed with the colour matching of this range. I find that if I start close to the as built colour its sort of easy to fade, weather etc.
Here is the good old UP Harbour mist Grey.
REA Green, a very close match for AN green, if you need to repair an Auscision modeletc.
L&N yellow, don't over think it, the perfect RR yellow for AN HI etc.
To solve the problem of transferring paint from one jar to another I have modified as shown the cap, I put a hole in one of the used up bottles and glued it inside the Acuflex top, and now I can spray straight from the bottle, yippy!
Some painting tips, Barcoola style.
On my dual action gun, I set the nib back slightly so paint will come out as soon as I press down on the trigger, just to ensure that paint is not restricted, should give you a slight mist for which you can start controlling the thickness of paint.
thus if you have the paint too thick it will show before you point it at any model.
With the acetone base it could be destructive to plastic bodies. However I have so far only noted some slight crazing on one model, but this had other paint underneath.
I have painted 12 locomotives without this happening, so I will monitor.
The paint can go easily gloss, so make sure you have plenty of matt, as this will be required to finish off each project.
On the reverse side decals love it.
Get plenty of straight white, you will always need this for mixing.
Coverage is dam good, white is always the test.
Don't think of doing three different colours in one day on the one model it just won't happen, straight up limitation of the paint.
Give them a day or two between coats of different colours.
Magic tape is good for masking, have not used any others at this time.
The locomotives below have been painted exclusively with Tru Color Paints.
The colours I have used, White, Reefer Orange cut with white and red to get the right Mt Newman orange punch.
BHP blue is L&N Blue, its dam close straight out of the bottle.
the black is Grimy black.
Weathering is Grimy black with red added, make not mistake you need to add red, for Pilbara grime and dust.
Yellow is L&N Yellow, straight from the bottle.
So now I have something that is an acceptable replacement for Acuflex.
So at this time, I guess, I am a Tru Color paint convert.
Give it a go, just remember its not an acrylic paint, and Acetone is a flammable material, so take appropriate pre cautions.
Scott
Like all things, if you have something that works for you, you need to have a reliable supply. Unfortunately Acuflex or modelflex paints are no longer available. I have been looking for a replacement, this means:
- Can be used straight from bottle to gun.
- Has RR colours.
- Bottles can be screwed straight onto the gun.
- Fine pigments.
I had been experimenting with various paints, and for weathering I have been relatively successful using Vallejo acrylic paints.
However for straight painting, it got a little expensive, small containers of 17ml, which had to be transferred to a bottle, that could be fed into the gun.
These were meant to go straight into the gun, which is what I was after, no stuffing around.
But I found Vallejo needed to be cut.
While at the Ballarat exhibition I came across these, Tru Color Paints, the guy selling them, Toney, is the owner of Southern Cross Railway Hobbies (here is the link)
Apart from the base being Acetone, the paints fit the bill, they have all the railway colours.
In descent size bottles, and can be sprayed from the bottle directly from the gun.
After first giving it a go, I have learned that it does not hurt to cut the mix with some Acetone. There is some escaping of the acetone over time, so I just monitored my usage and adjusted accordingly.
Plenty of googling will show some tips, from on line forums, my tip is a lick of acetone to each bottle before application is just fine.
Here are some of the paint colours,
Here is the good old UP Harbour mist Grey.
REA Green, a very close match for AN green, if you need to repair an Auscision modeletc.
L&N yellow, don't over think it, the perfect RR yellow for AN HI etc.
To solve the problem of transferring paint from one jar to another I have modified as shown the cap, I put a hole in one of the used up bottles and glued it inside the Acuflex top, and now I can spray straight from the bottle, yippy!
Some painting tips, Barcoola style.
On my dual action gun, I set the nib back slightly so paint will come out as soon as I press down on the trigger, just to ensure that paint is not restricted, should give you a slight mist for which you can start controlling the thickness of paint.
thus if you have the paint too thick it will show before you point it at any model.
With the acetone base it could be destructive to plastic bodies. However I have so far only noted some slight crazing on one model, but this had other paint underneath.
I have painted 12 locomotives without this happening, so I will monitor.
The paint can go easily gloss, so make sure you have plenty of matt, as this will be required to finish off each project.
On the reverse side decals love it.
Get plenty of straight white, you will always need this for mixing.
Coverage is dam good, white is always the test.
Don't think of doing three different colours in one day on the one model it just won't happen, straight up limitation of the paint.
Give them a day or two between coats of different colours.
Magic tape is good for masking, have not used any others at this time.
The locomotives below have been painted exclusively with Tru Color Paints.
The colours I have used, White, Reefer Orange cut with white and red to get the right Mt Newman orange punch.
BHP blue is L&N Blue, its dam close straight out of the bottle.
the black is Grimy black.
Weathering is Grimy black with red added, make not mistake you need to add red, for Pilbara grime and dust.
Yellow is L&N Yellow, straight from the bottle.
So now I have something that is an acceptable replacement for Acuflex.
- Proper railway colours.
- A reliable source.
- Good size bottles, and can be sprayed straight from the bottle.
So at this time, I guess, I am a Tru Color paint convert.
Give it a go, just remember its not an acrylic paint, and Acetone is a flammable material, so take appropriate pre cautions.
Scott
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